Monday, May 24, 2010

Who can wear pigtails?

In targeting the 12 to 19 demographic, Seventeen treads in uncertain territory. There will always be some degree of mismatched advice when an attempt is made to direct a unified message at an age range that straddles a few different developmental stages. Consider the fact that a 12-year-old is only just entering middle school, while a 19-year-old has already finished high school. The likelihood of producing a publication with advice (and advertising content) that is relevant to both of these groups is highly unlikely, and this fault occasionally manifests itself in the magazine's articles.

For instance, in choosing today's hairstyle I decided to go for the Playful Pigtails look. At this point in time, it is a well-established and well-enforced idea in our culture that pigtails on grown women are, at least to some degree, infantilizing. On children, pigtails carry little (if any) connotations. On adults, however, they are likely to be read as submissive, girlish, or at the very least, playful. I'm not here to make a judgement on whether grown women should or should not wear pigtails. I am simply reiterating the fact that if an adult woman chooses to do so, she is likely to be met with references to catholic school girls, Punky Brewster, and Lolita. It's just the way our society has come to perceive things.

If you require some convincing, take a look at these stills from the Prada Spring 2010 runway show. Hairstylist Guido Palau says of his inspiration for the show, "I was thinking of Lolita. The combination of pigtails with blow-up-doll mouth results in a dark Lolita-like look-- it isn't innocent. The hair is soft and girly, the mouth is glossy and sexual." Pigtails on grown women are a look that carry a distinct set of assumptions, regardless of whether or not these assumptions are fair.
Which brings me to my qualm with the inclusion of pigtails in this month's issue of Seventeen. Where do we draw the line between fun and sexual? At what age do pigtails change from just a hairstyle into a statement? The answer: somewhere between 12 and 19-- somewhere within Seventeen's target demographic. Pigtails have a distinctly different effect when worn by a 12-year-old than when worn by someone who is almost 20.

In the magazine's introduction of the hairstyle, they describe the look as, "not your little
sister's pigtails." Judging from this, I am assuming that the hairstyle is intended to lean more toward sexy-girlish than actual-girlish, unless your little sister happens to have been featured on Toddlers and Tiaras. If this is the intention, I am conflicted for two reasons. First, is it moral (or fair?) to encourage teenage girls who may not understand the implications of pigtails to wear them? That is, how comfortable are we letting young teens walk around unknowingly looking like fetish models? I know this outlook is a bit alarmist, but am I correct in thinking that it is at the least somewhat wrong to pin an image on young girls that they may not be able to understand the implications of yet?

Secondly, I take issue with the notion that encouraging pigtails on teens reinforce an association between things that are "girlish" and things that are "sexy." Something seems askew to me when we are living in a world childhood and sex-appeal can exist comfortably on the same plane.

Still, its difficult to determine where we draw the line. I came up with this handy infographic to illustrate the ages at which pigtails enter a gray area. At what age do you think pigtails cross the line from fun to sexual? Does this line even exist?

ETA: Jezebel linked to my article and now something happened to the picture from all the views. You can view a lower quality version of the chart here if the embedded one below isn't working.

48 comments:

  1. I would move sasha grey a bit further down your list

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  2. I think your project is quite inventive and wish you lots of luck.
    You said that you would be describing how following these daily rituals effects YOUR life as well as the commentary on teenage life/your adolescent experience. I would like to hear more of your personal feelings and experiences you gain throughout the day.
    Exp: Did the pigtails make you feel girly? Were people staring at you? Did you overhear gossip?

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  3. I agree with Anonymous at 4:45 PM. Hearing more of this project's effects on YOUR own life would be insightful -- people's perceptions of you, and yours of them.
    Good luck, this is an interesting project.

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  4. And all this time I have been wearing pigtails occasionally because my hair is too short for a ponytail and they are kind of practical. Oh well. I guess the one of the advantages of being an adult is "getting away with" whatever the hell I want to.

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  5. I think the pigtail thing has more to do with persona than with age. I imagine one would be subjected to significantly fewer handlebar jokes when looking "like an independent bookstore employee/NPR listener" than a hooker, or a "normal teen," or whatever they're calling it these days.

    Mostly, I just wanted to tell you that what you're doing here is awesome and I wish that, when I was your age, I had had the self awareness to turn my contempt for my peers and peer culture into something really cool and actually productive like you have with this blog. Hell, I'm now in my mid-20's and wish I'd have as good an idea as this. You're a great writer, and possibly the single most astute 18-year-old I've ever had the pleasure of reading/hearing, so keep it up.

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  6. Pigtails only become a part of some Lolita fantasy when they are styled that way. Keri Russel looks fine - like she is spending the day running some errands. Tila obviously looks like she is about the appear in a porn. If they are styled right (i.e. not worn on the top of your head in big messy poofs while making a sexy face), they are fine at any age. Maybe not fine at the office, certainly not an eyebrow raising choice at a backyard bbq.

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  7. Keri Russel looks so cute! She should be moved up way higher.

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  8. I think that most times pigtails are just pigtails. We shouldn't be so self-consumed and think that everyone is looking at us all the time, because they are not.

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  9. imo its not a line between sexual and not sexual. Pigtails are always cute, fun and playful, but fun and playful on a girl who has matured sexually is different to one who hasn't.

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  10. Sorry if my comment sounded bitchy. I do like your blog. :)

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  11. What about pregnant ladies? It seems they can get away with it.

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  12. Pigtail are great functional activity wear, especially if the activity involves helmets or hats. Specifically two french plaits would be my choice of hairdo for kayaking, windsurfing, biking, skiing etc.

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  13. have to say, your everyday hair looks a lot like mine, so I can sympathize about its unruliness. But, it's lovely! You are super cute and I like your blog idea.

    One thought, though, Sasha Grey.... can't help but be bothered that she is lumped in with the rest of the celebrities on your list.

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  14. Let's get this straight. These are not pigtails. These are ponytails. "Pigtails" is another term for braids.

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  15. "Secondly, I take issue with the notion that encouraging pigtails on teens reinforce an association between things that are "girlish" and things that are "sexy." Something seems askew to me when we are living in a world childhood and sex-appeal can exist comfortably on the same plane."


    I think this is an incredibly good point!

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  16. "First, is it moral (or fair?) to encourage teenage girls who may not understand the implications of pigtails to wear them? That is, how comfortable are we letting young teens walk around unknowingly looking like fetish models?"

    A lot of stuff aims to sexualize teen girls, who are naive and stupid by nature (says a recent college grad not too far removed from her teens, so don't take offense). I think the ignorance and naivete are part of the appeal, along with the assumed fewer wrinkles and smaller waistline. It's not really fair. I wish I had been as confident and horny back then as I am now because there are so many more opportunities to slut around as a high schooler/freshman than there are as an overworked college senior. I hate that I'm in my early 20s and already feeling unattractively old. :/

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  17. In response to tj:

    1. Maybe 'stupid' was a bit much? 'Naive' is already hard for teens to hear; why compound?

    2. I had zero opportunities to 'slut around' as a high schooler/college first-year. However, I more than made up for it after grad school, when I was

    3. quite a bit hornier - and more confident - than I ever was in college.

    Patience. It all gets better, and more interesting. Surprised?

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  18. on my goodness, you are a genius.

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  19. Im really interested in the chart but neither the link or the pic work anymore. What a pitty.

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  20. Man, good article! I hadn't really thought of this. I am almost 21, and I wear pigtails because it's the only way to get the hair off my face while it is still visible from the front. I think it looks cute, but I never thought of "infantalising" when I see it.

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  21. pigtails should not be worn once you leave elementary school and 6th grade is pushing it

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  22. This blog is brilliant. It goes without saying, but, really, what you're doing is bringing to the forefront so many of the ways that magazines, and media in general, shape the way we view gender, maturity, our roles in society, what our appearance choices mean in society, and you're questioning all of these.

    The idea that some hairstyles look more sophisticated while others look "infantilising" is a simple truth - it's the result of the way our perceptions and attitudes are shaped by our peers, by the media, by the collective discourse we all help to perpetuate. And of course, you're right, that being sophisticated should speak for itself, and that certain colors of nail polish shouldn't be believed to speak for that.

    I've gone on for too long, as usual, but I do want to ask one thing - is infantilising necessarily a bad thing? Is there something wrong with being cute? I, personally, happen to love cute, and much prefer it to what would generally be described as beautiful, gorgeous, or sexy.

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  23. That's funny that the seventeen age demographic is 12 to 19. i think that's exactly how long i was subscribed to that magazine. i don't think i ever took its contents very seriously, no matter what age i was.

    love the idea of your project

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  24. I agree with chaari. I'm not sure infantilising is necessarily a bad thing.

    My daughter wants me to match my hairdo to hers every weekend. Often we both wear pigtails. It's fun. Makes me feel like a kid again.

    I wear my hair whatever way makes me feel good (be it cute or sexy or fun, etc) and wear it with pride and confidence. I try not to let other people make me feel self-conscious about my style--and just relax and enjoy all parts of life, including the pigtails!

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  25. I don't think Seventeen is targeting 12-19 year olds. It's mainly 14-19, high school and college.

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    Replies
    1. I am fifty and wear piney tails and buns.

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  26. At 14, I can see why they aren't billing the pigtails as cute. In the past 3ish maybe 2 years I've felt that generally girls my age are pushed into being hot and cute just doesn't cut it anymore. Boys, the media, and society seems to be pushing us into having that role and it's almost not childhood anymore. If that makes sense? Like this line here, "Something seems askew to me when we are living in a world childhood and sex-appeal can exist comfortably on the same plane." I just don't think they can. So once it crosses that boundary, it doesn't seem to me like they are trying to make childhood sexy it seems like they are trying to make children to grow up. And I think that's probably better, though obviously still not ideal.

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  27. @lj: I am a recent college grad (23, starting my second year of grad school in the fall), and, while I think I'm a much different person than I was at 19 0r 20, and that sure, experience has made me smarter and to know what choices not to make again, I would hardly say I was "stupid" as a teenager. I think we underestimate those younger than us.

    I also take offense to the fact that you say "slut around" when referring to opportunities for women to have sex. Enjoying sex and having it unattached or casually does not make a woman a slut. You're only perpetuating the double standards our society so firmly believe it.

    As for Amanda Bynes on the chart, those pigtails were part of a look for a film ("Hairspray") and she didn't choose them -- though it still does speak to your point, as her character is in the 12-19 age bracket. Awesome blog!

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  28. I'm 25 and put my hair in pigtails when I workout (which is everyday). I never even thought of them as sexual. I see it as best way to keep my short hair out of my face and under my swim cap or bike helmet. It certainly makes me look younger so I don't wear them to work.

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  29. I love the blog idea, and you're so incredibly articulate it was a pleasure to read each post. I hope you continue to blog; your no 'bs' attitude and critical analysis of the little details is quite fun to read. Keep it up! All the best at U of C!

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  30. To the folks who questioned the harm in infantilization:

    a) when we infantilize sexually mature women, we also serve to sexualize youth, blurring the lines between childhood/adolescence/and adulthood. This become problematic in the context of sexual abuse, abuse of authority etc etc.

    b) infantilization in the context of what is 'sexy' puts an inordinate amount of value on youthfulness, and puts pressure on women to adhere to the cult of youth that dictates we are not to succumb to the signs of age

    So while there is nothing wrong per se with ponytails or pigtails.. context is everything.. Magazines like seventeen and even older-demographic publications like Cosmo generally aren't sell the pigtail look based on it's practicality for when you need to get some groceries or go work out.

    THat being said, I'm enjoying your blog so far, and it's definitely on my blog roll. Good luck in your Sociology program (was my own major, loved it!). I think you will do GREAT!!

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  31. I think you made some seriously valid points in regards to the pigtails. I'm going to admit right here and now that I am 27 yrs old and I still wear pigtails on occasion. It used to be my standard hairstyle, because it was easy and just looked cuter than a pony tail (in my opinion of course). But about 2 years ago I starded doubting the look and decided they had no place being worn in a professional environment, work etc. Now-a-days I only wear them when I'm going out and...here it is...I want to feel somewhat sexy, or at least cute and fun. I think what Cara said about persona is a good way to look at this. Women like Kerri Russel and Zooey Deschanel look pretty and comepletely unthreatening...but then there's women like Tia Tequila and Baby Spice who are going for the whole "naughty girl" look that definitely crosses a line.

    So really you're dead-on with saying that certain beauty advice should not be given out to young, impressionalable girls who may not understand all the sexual implications. That is, unless that are marketing it as pure and fun and not with creepy, pouty sex appeal.

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  32. Braided pigtails are the only way to keep my very curly hair under control if I am camping, in high winds, or doing any sort of physical activities. As Aoife said, they are often the hairstyle of choice amongst my long haired friends for sporty activities.

    I think that much of the reason that Pigtails seem infantalizing is because they were the hairstyle of choice at an age when it was still considered acceptable for women to "play". As we grow up we are supposed to stop playing and go for more complicated and time consuming hairstyles.

    If anything I think that the hairstyles we think of as "sophisticated" are infantalizing. They require us to maintain minimal motion as to not throw hairs out of place. Basically you are expected to just to sit (or slowy sway) there and look pretty (which is what you expect of a newborn).

    So yeah, some quasi-pedophilic a*holes are going to look at me with my skinned knees, muddy clothes, and pigtails and think ugly little thoughts. But it is only because they are not used to the idea of women at play.That is there problem. Just like its a male rapists problem if he does not understand that wearing heels does not mean a woman is asking for it.

    I chose to believe that you, my friends, Aoife and I are reclaiming this easy to wear, low maintenance hair style for powerful women everywhere. Tila Tiqulia, on the other hand, may be another story...

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  33. I wear my hair in pigtails all the time, and I'm 21. However, I think there is a BIG difference in the high pigtails and the low pigtails. High pigtails => school-girlish => sexy in anyone above elementary school. I never wear my hair in high pigtails unless I want to be seen as such. Low pigtails are fine for anybody, and I don't see why people are bashing such a cute hairstyle. Sometimes it's nice to get away from the down, ponytail, bun rut.

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  34. I don't think you specifically addressed braided pigtails, but that's the only way I do them. On longer hair like mine, regular pigtails look ridiculous. People usually mistake me for 5-10 years younger than I really am (24), and that's with my hair down.

    Between my hair's, uh, fierce independence and my own lack of Girl Skills, there's little variation in the repertoire of styles I can manage, and the double braids are one of those styles. They're fairly practical: easy, comfortable in this awful midwestern humidity and don't exacerbate my migraines like a single ponytail can. Despite that, I've all but retired the style, and you've nailed why. I sure as hell don't need any help looking more "girlish", and being female/young already comes with enough sociocultural baggage of presumed/implicit sumbissiveness.

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  35. Here (Scandinavia) pigtails are more of an outdoorsy/hippie/bicyle-rider thing. In other words, the woman in pigtails isn't so much perceived as "sexy" as she is "healthy life-style."

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  36. Good point...but I feel like sometimes people read too much into it. Personally, I think pigtails BRAIDS are cute and fine and not sexual, but I think that normal pigtails can be sexual, but not always. For example, your pigtails look cute and fun, but as another commenter pointed out, tila tequila's are sexual. It all depends on how you wear them and how you act/dress/look while wearing them. But I don't think pigtail braids are sexual. Keri Russel and Miley Cyrus look cute and fun without being sexual.

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  37. I don't believe pigtails have the negative connotation you seem to think they do (in the 12-19 age range). I even remember wearing pigtails in college. In doing so, it is a casual/fun look (to go to class or to a bbq). I do agree that an older woman (my opinion over 25) wearing pigtails does have the connotations you state (esp in a professional environment).

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  38. "Secondly, I take issue with the notion that encouraging pigtails on teens reinforce an association between things that are "girlish" and things that are "sexy." Something seems askew to me when we are living in a world childhood and sex-appeal can exist comfortably on the same plane."

    But isn't that what adolescence, aka the 12- to 19-year-old demographic really is? It's the phase in a woman's life when she transforms from a child to a sexual being. Inevitably, there is some overlap--hence the abundance of awkwardness and insecurity that characterize the teenage years.

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  39. I agree--our society has sexualized little girls, and this is one of the many examples. Remember the under-age Britney Spears? I certainly do. And now Miley...I feel a little uncomfortable watching her videos knowing that there are 13 year old girls out there trying to be just like her as she's dancing around a pole in booty shorts. Eek!

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  40. This article is mind poison. It is implanting the idea in everyone's minds that pigtails are either immature or naughty. Why must we give pigtails a classification? Pigtails are pigtails. There is no age limit on pigtails. It all depends on who is wearing said pigtails, in example, an innocent teenage girl wearing pigtails is far more appropriate than a slutty one. This article does nothing but keep the problem you're talking about going. The problem, that society is encouraging teenagers to style their hair in a way they may not understand, well, frankly, this is ridiculous, and since you're bringing this idea up, you are part of the problem. Ladies, style your hair the way you feel fit, for no one is going to infantilize you or think you look like a whore.

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  41. I'm 25, have short hair & still wear pigtails, it's nothing to do with anything sexual, they're girly, fun & playful and that's why I like them. Who cares what society thinks, why should we have to conform to society.

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  42. It doesn't matter how you do you're hair, just be yourself. I don't get the way everyone wants to be 'different' by wearing ponytails. Just wear what you want, not to be unique or different just because you like it.

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  43. i came across this while i was looking up how to do pigtails without looking stupid... wow
    i just never really thought of pigtails as "sexy" unless your like trying to be!
    im 13, and a freshman in highschool... and this, this is just wow...
    i guess it opens up my eyes!
    we live in a sick world where ponytails that your little sister wears are so... sexual!
    im still gunna wear ponytails and ill tell you what happens.. because it is highschool, but i mean... i can only hope people will be mature enuf to see that im wearing them for fun, not for sex.

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  45. I honestly think that how pigtails look on you depends on how they play into your general attitude and outfit (and as a general thing I've noticed, the lower they are the less childish, and the less childishly you act the more mature they seem). I would think it would matter more if they were flattering on you. People's perception of it also depends on the person - there are people out there who see it just as a hairstyle or think it's cute, but then of course there are sorts who will fetishize it. The thing is, you can't control those people or know who really will think of a hairstyle in such sexualized terms (I'll assume that basing any idea of majority opinion on the internet isn't all that accurate, considering that I found this page when googling "pigtails as a teenager" and this, while the first result, was the only one that WASN'T porn). If you wear them somewhere and get a response that makes you feel uncomfortable, it would probably be best to take your hair down or just not frequent such places as often.

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  46. *sigh* Alright. This was posted ages ago, but upon finding this just now I feel that I must comment. It's JUST a hairstyle, guys. One ponytail is okay, but not two? It frustrates me to no end, especially as someone who wears their hair in many different styles of pigtails, and as a teenager who really does not care to look "sexy". So, when girls where short-shorts and push-up bras and makeup, trying to look older and sexier, it's 'normal', but wanting to wear two ponytails is what you are worried about? Anything can be perceived as sexual. I guarantee you that you will find ten-times as many plain ponytails in porn than pigtails.

    As for the chart, half of the women that were addressed as "infantilizing" actually looked great in pigtails. It's only sexual if that's how you try to make it look, as goes with literally everything.

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  47. They must cross between the ages 14-15 because I had worm this hair style the other day on my second day of high school, and, in school, with no exaggeration, everyone, boys and girls, stared at me so that I almost was uncomfortable. I also was stared at the same way on the bus while eating a dum dum (lolipop, for those clueless), especially by this guy who looked to be in his mid to late 20's.

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